8th. August 2007. Day twelve.

I awoke to bright sunlight on my tent - the intense kind of light that makes camping a pleasure. It immediately lifted my spirits and helped me contemplate the coming day's adventure - the dreaded Lough Derg! All down the Shannon River I had been warned about the dangers of the lake. By this stage I visions of it being dark and foreboding, with waves eight foot high and whirlpools catching unsuspecting travelers and sucking them down. The sun never shone on this lake.

I unzipped my tent and put my head out. From between the glorious boats in my private Terryglass harbour I could see the lake's water - still, shinning sky blue and very inviting. I was planning to travel just 20km that day, to get to Dromineer, and in these conditions it was going to be an easy pleasurable paddle.

I had considered going to the pub for a big fry but it was a bit early for the pub to be open so I made myself breakfast of tea, Heinz Sandwich Spread sandwiches and a heated tin of Ambrosia Creamed Rice. After breakfast I folded up my sleeping bag and tent, and packed everything into the kayak. I was careful to not leave anything behind. I had been fortunate to find this idyllic setting for camping, so I wasn't going to leave anything behind that might spoil it for the next fortunate soul.

I sat in my kayak on the grassy rocky small slipway and slid down into the water. Quietly and gracefully I paddled out of my little private harbour and out into the lake. To whoever owns that small private harbour, thanks for your hospitality - albeit acquired without consent!


The lake was fabulous. Thankfully I had my hat, sunglasses and sun cream on, because the sun was beating down. The water was like a millpond and I was the only thing making waves. I paddled on out past the headland of Gortmore Point and then headed straight across open water for the next headland of Drominagh Point. Looking straight ahead, south down the lake, I was amazed at just how big it was. Although I could see the lake edges each side of me, I could not see land in front of me on the horizon. It struck me that the world curved before I could see land. Now that's a big lake to be in a small kayak. Although there were slight waves now in the open part of the lake, I was thankful that conditions were so calm. I had reached my Nemesis - what I had decided was my greatest danger on the trip, and it had become one of the calmest stretches of water I have ever traveled, in blue sunny skies. The weather had challenged me at various times along the trip. It had thrown strong winds and lashing rain at me but I had persevered. It felt like the weather was rewarding me. I savored the time, and paddled slowly.


It's strange in some ways, but not strange at all in other ways, how we can make company with anything when we are in solitude. I found the trip very lonely at times - when bursting with information I wanted to tell somebody but nobody was there. Nobody to share some special moments. And so the weather became my company. Sometimes nice, sometimes wicked and nasty, but always there. And today, Mother Nature, Mother Weather was gentle and kind. Providing a still blue lake. I made a mental note to avoid doing these trips on my own in future. It could drive a person stir crazy.

On past Kilgarvan on my left and then past Bellevue Point. I aimed for a small island called Goat's Road, planning to have a short break there. However, when I got to the island, which was just a collection of rocks, it was covered in bird droppings and millions of flies. I quickly abandoned it and headed to the edge of the lake. I stopped at a grassy area, which appeared to be the end of somebody's back garden. I ate a can of sardines, keeping an eye out for the owner or an angry dog!


Back in the kayak, I paddled towards the large island of Illaunmore. I was now more than halfway to Dromineer. The going was good and easy.


With the calmness of the lake, it gave me time to think about the trip. In the weeks before starting this trip, I sent out the following e-mail:

"As some of you may be aware, starting 28/7/07 I'm planning to do an "expedition" from Malin Head to Mizen Head by cycling through Donegal and Fermanagh to Lough Navar, where I will walk part of the Ulster Way through Lough Navar and Big Dog forests, followed by the Cavan Way to Dowra. I will kayak down the Shannon river to Limerick, and then cycle on to Mizen Head. In about three weeks. That's the plan anyway! This is in aid of adventure, nothing else! I may or may not make the full trip, as I'll have to contend with traffic, potholes, the mechanics of a bike, insect bites, sore muscles, uphill sections, cramp, water, the weather, eating disturbances, sleeping in a tent, cold nights, warm nights, blisters, getting lost, waves, sunburn, headwinds, long roads, long rivers, high hills .... and the unexpected! But I'll give it a go! I intend to have my progress notified to the interested by e-mail or text, about every two / three days. If you want to be kept informed, let me know! And tell me if you'd prefer e-mail or text! "

And just some of the replies …….

"Is Josh on the handle bar or cross bar? " - Paul

"Good luck with your trip. Sounds exhausting! " - Bernie

"Keep me informed young man. And best of luck. " - JP.

"Sounds like fun! " - Niamh

"Go on keep us informed. Me I'm going to Spain for a fortnight with a pile of books and no mobile phone. I have to contend with a blue sky, vodka, sleep, swimming on the beach, fine dining, reading, walking short distances. I should be back soon after you embark on your voyage. I'd be interested to hear how you are getting on. Then I can tell you how I got on. They do say that the weather is to get better in September. That's too late isn't it. But if you get lost you'll probably still be out there in Cavan somewhere in September. Would you not just do a week in Sunshine instead, at least you'd be fed. " - Brian.

"Hope the saddle doesn't get too sore! " - Mary

"I did a very similar trip recently. I left my house and walked all the way to The Yellow House along the Whitechurch Way. I too had to contend with traffic, potholes, a big dog, insects, uphill sections, cramp and blisters and to make things worse there was a bit of drizzle at one point. So , we are very much similar in our adventurous spirit. " - Wob.

"Great, it sounds like fun????????!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's great to be young. Good luck! " -Michael.

"Ya boy ya Shay. That sounds like a great challenge. By the way, there are no potholes in Cavan. The council recently invested in a new batch of shovels, and have them all fixed. " - Brendan F.

"Well fair play to you! Never thought it would happen. " - Brendan D.

"Yo shambo Great adventure planned, fair play. Your trip sounds so exciting. Can't wait to here all. Best of luck. " - Pamela

"I'll wish for a tail wind all the way. " - Andrew

"I travel the country a bit so if you need a lift from say.... Leitrim to Cork do not hesitate to ask. Its ok to skip a bit. No really it is. No one will think any less of you, Really. " - Declan.

"May God be with you ! " - Izzy.

"You're a madman! I'm all for an easy life myself. Definitely keep me posted by email, you might even motivate me to get off my lazy ***! " - Celine.

"Fair play to you - I thought u were joking. " - Donal.

"You lunatic. " Brian

The thoughts of those wishing me well kept me going and it wasn't long before I paddled between the Corrikeen Islands and Urra Point into Dromineer Bay, and then on into Dromineer Harbour. Two days earlier, I had arranged with a friend of mine - John Flannery, to stay at his parents B&B in Dromineer. A quick call to John and he directed me to the B&B. It was perfect - just 500m from the slipway. I locked the kayak to a nearby bench and went to the B&B with some of my equipment. John's parents were very accommodating and showed me to a room with a terrific view out over the lake. I then brought the rest of my equipment over to the B&B in a couple of trips.

After a shower, I studied my maps for a while. I had paddled 20km that day, exactly as planned, arriving to Dromineer at 3pm. I had two thirds of the lake done. Tomorrow's plan was to go 21km to Killaloe, to the end of the lake. I was confident that I'd make the lake journey without incident. My fear of the lake was almost gone. Just one relatively short stretch to go.

Later that afternoon I went to a pub called The Whisky Still, whose food was recommended by the Flannerys. The recommendation was on the button, and I enjoyed a big lasagna, dessert and coffee. I went for a walk around the harbour and on back to the B&B. It was still early so after sorting my equipment for the morning I went back to The Whisky Still and had a couple of pints sitting at the bar. I chatted briefly with a couple of people at different times but didn't get into any long conversations. After the couple of drinks I went back to the B&B and went to bed.

I was relaxed and comfortable. I had two thirds of the lake done and reckoned the last section couldn't be too hard …. if the good weather held out. But would the weather hold? I had experienced the vastness of the lake and knew that even a small wind would be able to raise a big swell. I had been fortunate today, but would my luck continue? Would my new friend - the weather, be kind? I don't think I had the chance to contemplate that for too long before I fell fast asleep.