I had planned to stay in Ballingeary because at some stage, when planning the trip, I had driven through Ballingeary and was very impressed with the town. It just looked appealing. Bright, inviting and scenic. It had the potential for a very pleasant evening stop-over, but considering the distance I was travelling, I suspected I could get further. If I got further, it would reduce the final day - and that was a big attraction. I knew that the final day's travel would drag and drag. Shortening it would be a big help.
I packed my equipment on the bike and headed off, leaving the charming, hospitable and comfortable Agherton Lodge B&B, with it's winding driveway and elegant horses. I told myself I'd come back someday.
The house in the backround has no connection to this trip!
I peddled on, alongside the main railway track, and got to Millstreet - host town for the 1993 Eurovision Song Contest, and a fading mural on a wall to commemorate the achievement. As I cycled through the town I kept an eye out for the equestrian centre that in which the event was held but there was nothing obvious. Was it really that small?! The population of the town at the time was only 1,500 people, but with support from the wider European Community we went on to win with the song "In Your Eyes". That's it - recollect the music, start humming, and just at the right moment belt it out, loud and clear!
I turned left in Millstreet and headed south between the Derrynasaggart and Boggeragh mountain ranges. There were some difficult uphill sections but I could see from my Ordnance maps that the downhills weren't too far behind, which kept me going!
I kept Mullaghanish mountain on my right hand side and passed through Ballymakeery. Up and down more hills before a very steep uphill section, but manageable in the knowledge that Ballingeary was on the other side.
I pressed on and got to Ballingeary at 3pm - way ahead of target. This was fantastic for me. The weather was fine, and although Ballingeary looked as impressive as I remembered, I knew there was a lot more energy in me and Bantry now became my target for the day. I passed a chip-shop-come-diner and explored the town for better eating facilities. However nowhere is perfect and I found this town's weakness. No fancy eatery, so I went back to the chipper. I parked the bike in view outside the window and went in and ordered lunch. I got a table with a view of my bike and spread my maps out on the table. Bantry was still some distance to go but I was feeling more than confident. I was bursting with energy and knew the cycle would be manageable and enjoyable.
I phoned the Westlodge Hotel in Bantry and booked in. I've stayed there many times through work so knew the place well. I was now heading for familiar territory.
The food was cheap but wonderful. I forget now the exact meal, but whatever it was it came with chips and tasted fantastic! My mood was upbeat - everything was terrific!
After lunch I slowly cycled through and out of Ballingeary, giving myself plenty of time to warm up. A nice comfortable hotel, with swimming pool, was waiting for me. Although Bantry was still about 18km away, it didn't matter how long it took me to do it. It was hours before sun-down and I was going to enjoy a leisurely cycle.
I cycled west along the R584. This was a bigger road than the smaller roads I had become accustomed to, but there was very little traffic on it. I enjoyed the views of the mountains and the smell of the country in bright warm sunshine.
I came to "The Pass of Keimaneigh". This is a steep uphill valley section in the Shehy Mountains between Doughill and Foilastookeen mountains. I tried my best but had to walk the bike up some of the hill.
It was a hard, difficult climb, but in fabulous scenery. It struck me that I had probably driven this way a few times previously, but the I had never registered how scenic it was. The sweat dripped off my face, but with each lungful of air I took in I also took in the smell of grass, trees, plants, scrubs, hedge growth, weeds, moss and ferns that grew plentifully on the side of the road. The pain from effort didn't bother me. I knew I was earning rich reward.
A plaque was erected on the side of the road. I was at the top of the Pass. It was mainly downhill from now on, not that uphills were of any concern to me anymore. They were part of my journey.
I cycled on and headed for Kealkill. Kealkill was a place I had driven through many times when driving to work in Bantry. It's a small village but of particular note because there's a turn there to take the road towards Cork. I knew that when I reached Kealkill I'd be on very familiar road. It was almost like I was going to meet family again. Solitude can be a strange thing. Although alone, I wasn't lonely, but with heading towards a familiar location I was in terrific form. I shifted up gears.
I stopped in Kealkill and bought a Strawberry Yop. I didn't drink it there but saved it for later. I had something on my mind.
I peddled on, out of Kealkill and on towards the west coast, and the N71 main road to Bantry. The N71 was about 4km away, so it didn't take me long to get there. The N71 is the main road which travels up the west coast of Ireland and this particular section is between the main towns of Bantry and Glengarriff. I got to the road and turned left, heading for Bantry. I peddled along for a short while, before stopping at a suitable location for a rest and time to ponder.
Apart from the dramatically fantastic scenery, looking out at the Atlantic ocean over Bantry Bay, this section of road held special significance for me. It wasn't just the N71, it wasn't just a section of the main thoroughfare North-South, it wasn't just a fantastic view. This was a section of the road that my father had travelled in a trip many many years before, and my brother had followed many years later.
I opened my Yop, took off my hat, and drank to salute their commitment to follow a dream, their achievement, and their inspiration.
This section of road was part of the reason I was now here. I felt I was with family again.
My Dad and his brother Gerry cycled around Ireland on a tandem in about 1945. My Dad was twenty seven and Gerry about five years younger.
They got the train from Dundalk to Dublin (because they had already cycled that section a few times). They then cycled from Dublin to Arklow, Enniscorthy, New Ross, Waterford, Dungarvan, Cork, Bandon, Bantry, Glengarriff, Adrigole, Lauragh, Kenmare, Killarney, Killorglin, Tralee, Ballybunion, Limerick, Ennis, Galway, Costelloe, Maam Cross, Clifden, Leenane, Louisburgh, Westport, Castlebar, Knock, Charlestown, Sligo, Dowra, Belturbet, Cavan, Coothill, Carrickmacross and back to Dundalk. In ten days. A truly tremendous journey. My brother John then emulated their achievement by doing the exact same cycle, in the same time period, on his own in 1977. Another tremendous journey.
But John didn't stop there. In 1995, when he was forty, he cycled 1,662km from Paris to Rome in three weeks! I won't name the towns he went through, but you can find them here - blogconnection I joined him for a week, by driving a car, through the east of France, through Switzerland, across the Alps via the Great St. Bernard Pass in snow, and down into the Northern section of Italy.
I managed to experience just a taste of John's incredible journey and while he continued on for Rome, I left him, with me in awe, and drove to an airport for my flight back to Dublin.
At some stage between hearing of my father's wonderful epic tour of Ireland, John's journey in his peddle-tracks and John's later trans-continental expedition, I was truly inspired. I think it was on a plane from Milan to Dublin in 1995 that I decided that when I was forty I would do a trip. A journey. An expedition. An idea which was conceived, presumably by my father, before 1945, was now being developed further.
Years later, I was now at the side of the road near Bantry. A little tired, and very very proud. Proud of those who had cycled this road before me. Something, or someone, pushed me back on my bike the day before when I was at a very low point. Thanks Dad. Thanks John.
I hopped back on the bike and peddled gently on into Bantry. I took the time to think. I now knew exactly why I had taken on this expedition. The idea had been sown within me by others before me. I had a deep-rooted desire to journey somewhere - to travel on an expedition. Not necessarily to get from A to B, but to journey. To travel outside of my comfort zone and to experience all that would be thrown at me - the pleasure, the perils, the joy and the danger. To live it and to deal with it. Today I had reached a stage where I experienced the joy in smelling the surroundings even when sucking air on the uphill sections. Uphill, downhill, small waves, big waves - they all contribute to making a terrific journey.
The familiar town of Bantry was welcoming and further joy on a good day. I cycled through it and on out towards the Westlodge Hotel, getting there at about 6pm and 85km cycled that day. The hotel is about one kilometer outside the town but in the right direction for tomorrow's cycle. The receptionist suggested I put the bike out the back, so I checked in and got my room key. I brought the bike around the back and locked it to a gate. I loaded all my equipment across my shoulders, including full panniers, handlebar bag and refuse sacks with tent and sleeping bag. I then walked through a back door and got some funny looks as I passed the kitchen. I found a way through to the main hotel and went up to my room.
After unpacking, I went for a swim, sauna and jacuzzi. I was the only person in the facilities for a long time and eventually heard quite a laugh when others came in to the pool area to find me lying back in the water with my head resting on a flotation aid and my feet up on the side of the pool. I think they were relived to see I wasn't actually dead.
That evening I got something small to eat and celebrated my achievements with a couple of pints. I had just one day to go - about 40km. It wasn't much compared to some of the distance I had put in each day. This was going to be easy. My journey was almost complete.
The day was a good one, tomorrow could be even better. Adrenalin, excitement or enthusiasm couldn't hold it back. The bed was big and comfortable. The sleep came quickly.
